Once the information is traced, I drilled 1" holes at each intersection, ala Tony Bingelis. Those holes prevent the rib from being glued to the jig. (BTW, in previous post, for "fig" read "jig").
The bits of dowel are locking cams that hold the capstrip in place. I got this idea from one of the videos on the EAA site. The little cams exert an astounding amount of force.
In modern times, we often adopt things that are intended to make our lives easier, but sometimes work the opposite. Case in point, I have no easy method of cutting the dowel cams by hand. I only have power tools. I tried to cut them on the radial arm saw. They randomly shoot all over the shop.
So I tried the table saw. At least they shoot off in one direction and I can stand beside the saw and out of the line of fire. Pretty funny really.
Now I need some materials to arrive.
Saturday, June 23, 2012
I am not overly fond of the method whereby the plans are laid under a transparent, glue resistant material and the jig built on top of that.
Tony Bingelis (sp?) transfers measurements from the plans to the jig board. I have problems with that approach, too. My method is to tape carbon paper (yes, you can still buy carbon paper) to the jig board, tape the plans over the carbon paper and trace the information onto the fig board.
The long metal rule ensures that the spar centers are exactly 31" apart. It also aids in tracing the information. The drawing lines are not straight? A bit disturbing.
Tony Bingelis (sp?) transfers measurements from the plans to the jig board. I have problems with that approach, too. My method is to tape carbon paper (yes, you can still buy carbon paper) to the jig board, tape the plans over the carbon paper and trace the information onto the fig board.
The long metal rule ensures that the spar centers are exactly 31" apart. It also aids in tracing the information. The drawing lines are not straight? A bit disturbing.
I originally started out with the idea of screwing a 3/4" piece of plywood directly to this small work table in order to ensure a flat surface for the wing rib jig.
That didn't work. The plans suggest framing the jig with 2X4's. Obviously written in a different era. Even here in the Pacific Northwest, where the lion's share of building materials come from, finding straight dimensional lumber can be done, but those selling it are mighty proud of it.
So I ripped some 3/4" plywood into 4" wide lumber and used that to frame the jig. It is good and flat, checked with my 5' level.
That didn't work. The plans suggest framing the jig with 2X4's. Obviously written in a different era. Even here in the Pacific Northwest, where the lion's share of building materials come from, finding straight dimensional lumber can be done, but those selling it are mighty proud of it.
So I ripped some 3/4" plywood into 4" wide lumber and used that to frame the jig. It is good and flat, checked with my 5' level.
Friday, June 22, 2012
Monday, June 18, 2012
Nothing much to take photos of today. I ordered the capstrip for the wing ribs. 702 feet of 1/4" X 1/4" spruce capstrip. I used Aircraft Spruce. I also spent an hour this evening cutting more nose blocks. I got five more done. In a previous post, I listed 17 as completed. Wrong number. There were only 12. I now have 17, of 36, cut.
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Nose Blocks
Here are some wing rib nose blocks. There are 17 of them here. I need 36 just like these and two more slightly different. This represents about 1-1/2 hours of work from 2X6 panels of 1/4" aircraft plywood to finished nose blocks.
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